| NEW OR UNPAINTED CONCRETE FLOORS Floors - Check for any dampness on floors by placing a rubber mat down and leaving overnight. Upon inspection, if dampness occurs on the back side of the mat, or concrete surface has been darkened by moisture - Do Not Paint. New concrete should be allowed to cure 30 days at 75° F. prior to painting. All concrete surfaces should be etched before painting with a solution of one part muriatic acid and two parts water. (Wear rubber gloves and goggles because this solution is hazardous.) Allow solution to bubble, then rinse well with clean water. Brush while rinsing to remove all loose concrete. Allow surface to dry completely. Additional vacuuming may be required to remove powdery residue left from etching. Concrete can also be prepared for painting by lightly sandblasting. PAINTED CONCRETE OR WOOD FLOORING Be sure surface is free from dirt, dust, etc. by sweeping or vacuum cleaning. Remove grease, oil, floor compound and wax by chemical cleaning. Scrape carefully to remove deteriorated coatings. If remaining coating is glossy or very hard, sand it lightly for good adhesion of subsequent coatings. The surface must be thoroughly dry before coating. MASONRY (BLOCK, CINDER, AND CONCRETE) Allow to dry 30 days under normal drying conditions prior to painting. If efflorescence or cement dust is present on masonry and concrete, it should be removed by etching with a 10% solution of muriatic acid. Flush off surface, after etching, with clean water and allow to dry. If etching is not possible to neutralize efflorescence; sand, scrape and wire brush; then coat with masonry conditioner before painting. Surfaces should also be free of all dust, dirt and loose or excess mortar. Porous surfaces should be filled with block filler before painting. |
| SURFACE PREPARATION GUIDE The quality of surface preparation, and surface repair on new, or repaint surfaces, significantly affects the amount of preparatory work that will be required.. Surface preparation and surface repair are the most important requirements for maximum durability from any paint product. Because the results of surface preparation and repair are quickly hidden by the first coat, the effects are not usually evident until premature paint failure occurs. The first step should always be a thorough examination of the surface to be painted, checking for peeling and faded paint, dirt, chalking, grease, cracking, knots, bare areas, mildew, rust, nail stains and structural problems. All surfaces, whether painted or unpainted, must be clean, free from shine, sound and dry prior to finishing. GENERAL SURFACE PREPARATION Remove as much loose and peeling paint by scraping, wirebrushing and or power-washing the surface. Feather-sand rough edges smooth until they blend with bare surface. DIRT, GREASE, OIL DEPOSITS Remove these deposits by washing with a detergent solution (TSP) or commercial cleaner recommended for cleaning painted surfaces using a sponge or brush. Protected areas, such as under eaves and overhangs, need special attention to remove invisible deposits that can promote a premature peeling problem. After washing, thoroughly rinse with clean water and allow to dry. Power-washing is also a fast, effective method of removing dirt, chalk, etc. If a power-washer is used, follow the manufacturer's recommendations and warnings. We do have several Environmentally Products to accomplish a satisfactory surface!!! MILDEW Spotty patches that look like dirt, but do not come off when scrubbed with detergent solution, are probably mildew. Mildew can occur on any side of the house, but is more likely to grow in shaded areas or behind shrubbery. It can easily be identified from other forms of discoloration by applying a few drops of bleach. If mildew is present, the black, gray or brown color will bleach out and disappear within one or two minutes. Mildew must be killed and removed before repainting. If the mildew is not completely removed, the active spores will continue to grow and may almost immediately begin to reappear on a recently repainted surface. Where mildew is present, apply a solution of one part household bleach and three parts water, or use a commercial mildew remover. CAUTION!! DO NOT MIX BLEACH WITH AMMONIA OR DETERGENTS CONTAINING AMMONIA. Follow specific instructions if a commercial mildew remover is used. RUST Remove all rust by sandblasting, wirebrush, steel wool, sandpaper or naval jelly (rinse thoroughly). CRACKS, SPLITS AND OPEN JOINTS Cracks, or open joints, where water may enter should be caulked with a high-quality, paintable acrylic caulk. GLOSSY SURFACES Always dull surfaces with sandpaper or liquid de-glosser or acid etching.. RUSTY/LOOSE NAILS Replace loose nails with slightly larger, galvanized nails. Leave nail heads flush with hardboard surfaces and counter sink on all other wood surfaces. Prime . PREVIOUSLY COATED SURFACES Maintenance painting will frequently not permit complete removal of all old coatings prior to repainting a particular surface. Recognize that any surface preparation, short of removal of all old coatings, may compromise the service life of the new coating system. Check compatibility of previously painted surfaces using a test patch with the coating if there is any doubt on recoatability. |